So we arrived in Bangkok after our lovely “bus” ride at 4:30 in the morning. We took a cab with Emera, from the Sudan, to Khaosan Road. We’d heard that this road was a good place to start for tourists and thought we’d look at the hotels there first. Since this is our first city we’ve visited that was never owned by the British, no one speaks English. So, after a very long taxi ride around the city to arrive about 4 kilometers from where we started, the sun was rising.
As we walked down Khaosan Road, it looked deserted until…. A very skinny “lady” in a miniskirt and very high heels brushed past me up to Jeff. She began to whisper sweet (or not so sweet) nothings into his ear and ran her fingers down his arm. Without thinking, I grabbed her hand and threw it down saying in my meanest voice, “Get off of him!” Now, this wasn’t probably the best move… not knowing (or, worse, knowing) where her hands have been. But, she sulked off behind me. A few minutes later, Emera yelled, “She’s in your bag!” This “lady” had tried to open my bag, but the double zipper thing confused the poor thing.
After that Jeff, Emera, and I found the nearest internet cafe and booked hotels far away from Khaosan Road.
Our hotel, Siam City, was in the middle, but near nothing. So, we got really good at taking taxies and using my ESL skills to communicate where we wanted to go. On our first day… after we showered away the Khoasan Road experience, we learned quickly not to believe anyone who offers help. During our stay in Bangkok we were inundated with men giving us “help” by telling us that a certain temple was closed that day, but they’d arrange for a tuk tuk to take you across town to the temple that was open for a small fee. The temples were always open and these men were always lying. They would try to change the taxi price at the end of the trip, but we never budged from our previously agreed upon amount. One time, our hotel doorman had to usher us inside after a taxi driver got really upset.
We did see some amazing Buddhist temples. The Reclining Buddha was phenomenally huge. The artistry that goes into the temples is breathtaking and overwhelming.
One night we met up with Jeff’s friend from J.D. Edwards, Ekvara, who lives in Bangkok. She took us out to try some amazing dishes I don’t think we’d have tried without her guidance. She took us to a night market where we, Jeff really, haggled and bargained the prices down. Ekvara spoke with one of the ladies selling things and she said that she has a Thai price and a tourist price. She doesn’t understand why tourists want to haggle so much and offer so little. She really felt tourists should pay more than Thai people. After the market, we went back to Khoasan Road to see what it is like while it’s busy. Well, it’s really touristy with many American and European college kids running around and buying dreadlock hair extensions. We, again, didn’t stay long.

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We thought Bangkok was interesting. It was insanely busy with rush hours in which your car just sits absolutely still. They have a monorail and a subway… neither of which goes anywhere tourists, or many people, need to go. The air was extremely smoggy and we both had difficulty breathing. So many of the people we ran into lied to us to try to make a buck. But, the temples were amazing. The devotion and love for their king (who underwent surgery while we were there and has reigned for a record 60 years) was beautiful.
After 3 days in Bangkok, we caught a taxi for the train station to go to Chiang Mai. Yeah, we left one and a half hours before our train. The trip was only 10 kilometers or so. Our taxi driver nodded his head when I showed him the slip of paper on which was the name of the train station written in Thai. (Looking back, I don’t think he could read.) We headed in the wrong direction for way too long. I kept thinking he was going to turn. But, he never did and Jeff finally had me say something and give him our map… pointing to the train station. After a bit of gesturing, we discovered that he was taking us to the airport. Nice. So we turned around to back into town and… what do you know, the traffic was at a stand-still. We sat in the same spot watching the time tick by. It was 6:30 and the train was boarding at 7:00. We were on the opposite side of town, not moving. Jeff and I looked at each other and thought, “What would we do if we were on ‘Amazing Race?’” If you watch the show… you’d know.
After we bribed the guy with an extra 100 baht (about $2.50) to get us there on time, he found alleys and parking lots. He even called someone to help him find the quickest route. Even with all his maneuvering, we arrived at the station at 7:25… 5 minutes before departure. We ran on the train and sat to breathe just as it pulled away. Now, the kicker is… he didn’t understand “take us to the train station” but he did understand, “We’ll give you an extra 100 baht for getting us there by the time our train leaves.” Interesting.
We arrived in Chiang Mai and were greeted by a man who offered to take us to our hotel for a really good price. Jack was really sweet and spoke amazing English. He offered to be our driver during our stay and if we booked a tour with him, he’d drive us around for free that day. His price was a lot cheaper than the same one offered by hotel, so we agreed. We spent the rest of the day looking at temples and going to some factories. We saw how silk is made…very cool. Each factory he takes us to, he earns 50 baht. So, we went to a few more so he could earn more money… we liked him so much.
The next day, we were excited for our tour and poor Jack’s car broke down. He had quickly arranged for another driver, but we were disappointed as we really liked Jack. We went to an elephant show and rode on the elephants. I was, initially, nervous about how they treat the elephants, but after going I was reassured that they are treated pretty well. We then rode an ox cart and took a bamboo raft back down the mountain.
The next day, we took a Thai cooking course. It was really fun and we loved the guy who taught it. He was hilarious! There were some girls from Amsterdam there who flipped their hair and didn’t think his jokes were funny… but the rest of us couldn’t stop laughing. The food was amazing, if I do say so myself.
We were sad to leave Chiang Mai as it was slower paced and people were really kind and helpful. But, we boarded another train for the trip back to Bangkok, then a plane to Hong Kong.
(By the way, since apparently it’s not clear, the “lady” in this entry refers to what the Thais call a “ladyboy.” )
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